Split Cable Wimple Knit Along – Cables

ModeKnit Yarn Cables

A cable is, essentially, a group of stitches that is divided into two smaller group.  Either the first group crosses in front of the 2nd group to create a Cable Left (aka Cable Front) or the first group crosses behind the 2nd group to create a Cable Right (aka Cable Back)

CABLE 4 LEFT
The first technique symbol on the key to the left is the Cable 4 left.  This is a cable made up of FOUR stitches.

Our cable is worked thus:

  • Slip the first 2 sts
    (either slip them onto a cable needle, or onto the right hand needle if you’re doing the cable-without-a-cable-needle technique),
  • Knit the next 2 sts,
  • Return to the slipped sts and cross them IN FRONT of the sts you just knit
  • Knit the two front crossed sts.

Cabling Without A Cable Needle Video

I know this sounds complicated, so here’s a brief video I made a few years ago explaining my favorite method for Cabling with a Cable Needle.  If you love to use a cable needle, please do so!  I don’t want to change how anyone enjoys their knitting, I just want to add some extra bits that some of you may find helpful!

Split Cable Wimple Knit Along – Lace Elements

I’ll be posting about my OWN knitting of my Split Cable Wimple, and here’s where you’ll come for tips and tricks and to ask questions in the comments.  If I can’t answer your question(s) right away, I’m positive someone will jump in and give it a good try!

First, and foremost, let’s discuss the symbols that are used in the pattern.  You don’t HAVE to use the chart, the pattern is written out for you, but when discussing the different techniques I’ll be referring to the stitch symbol to as well as the stitch technique name.

Sl st — Slip Stitch
In order to highlight a particular stitch, to draw attention to a vertical line in a pattern, often a stitch is “slipped,” or passed from the Left needle to the Right needle without forming a stitch.  This forces the Slipped Stitch to elongate itself and become twice as tall as the stitches around it, which can create a lovely stitch pattern.

We’ll work our Slip Stitches thus:

  • Work to the point where the Slip Stitch will happen.
  • Insert the needle into the next stitch purl-wise (as if you were going to purl the stitch) keeping the yarn to the wrong side of the work.
  • Slip the stitch from the Left Needle to the Right Needle.

The slipped stitch will echo the look of a Vertical Double Decrease (see below) and is often used in lace knitting to emphasize a stitch pattern without actually decreasing any stitches.

YO — Yarn Over
Sometimes called a “Yarn Forward” in the UK and Canada, a Yarn Over is the US name for a technique whereby we create an eyelet, or “hole” in the work.

In lace knitting, the eyelet is the most recognizable element, it’s what makes lace look like lace!

To form a Yarn Over, you’ll wrap the yarn around your working needle (usually the Right needle) in the same direction as you would wrap the yarn while making a knit stitch.

We’ll work our Yarn Overs thus:

  • Work to the point where the YO happens
  • DO NOT INSERT THE NEEDLE INTO THE NEXT STITCH!
  • While the needle is ‘resting’ between stitches wrap the yarn around the working needle in the same direction as if you were forming a knit stitch.
  • You’ve just formed a Yarn Over.

K2tog-R — Knit 2 tog with a Right Slant
One of the most basic decreases used in knitting will be what we call a K2tog-R.  In most Western patterns this is called, “K2tog”, but I like to add the K2tog-R at the end of the technique name to reinforce that this decrease will slant TO THE RIGHT.

A decrease will either slant to the left, to the right, or will be centered vertically.  This decrease slants to the right.

A simple way to remember what direction a decrease will slant is to note what direction the needle tips are pointing AS THEY ENTER THE STITCHES TO BE DECREASED!

We’ll work our K2tog-R thus:

  • Work to the point where the decrease will happen
  • Insert the tip of the working (Right) needle into the 2nd st from the tip of the Left needle, then continuing on, insert the tip of the working needle into the 1st stitch at the tip of the Left Needle.
  • The Left and Right needles will BOTH be inserted into the same two stitches at the tip of the Left needle, the needle tips will be pointing in the same direction.
  • Wrap the yarn around the tip of the working (Right) needle, then draw this loop through BOTH stitches (see video below) thus working these stitches together.
  • Kick the completed stitches off of the Left needle.

As shown in the video below, as the needle enters the stitches to form a RIGHT Decrease, the tip of the working needle enters the sts to be decreased pointing to the RIGHT.

I’m not going to cover the K2tog-L decrease here, which is usually called SSK or K2tog-TBL in most Western patterns.  You can watch the video to see how to form it, and WHY I call it K2tog-L, but as it’s not used in this lace motif I’ll just leave it here for now.

VDD — Vertical Double Decrease
In our Wimple we’ll be using the K2tog-R technique and a different decrease technique called a VDD to create a Centered, Vertical Decrease which leans neither left nor right.

A Vertical, or Centered, decrease will always involve an odd number of stitches; stitches to be decreased on either side of a centered stitch which will remain at the center of the decrease.

We’ll work our VDD thus:

  • Work to the point where the decrease will happen
  • Insert the tip of the working (Right) needle into the 2nd st from the tip of the Left needle, then continuing on, insert the tip of the working needle into the 1st stitch at the tip of the Left Needle.
  • Slip these stitches off together. DO NOT KNIT THEM, simply slip them off of the Left Needle onto the Right (working) needle.
    The stitches MUST be slipped together, do not slip them one by one.
  • Knit the next stitch on the Left needle
  • Pass the 2 stitches you’ve just slipped onto the Right needle OVER the single knit stitch you’ve just worked.
  • You can pass the stitches one at a time, or together, whichever is easiest.

You will have just formed a decrease which is vertically centered.  You should be able to see the center V clearly.  You have just decreased 2 stitches, turning a group of 3 sts into a single stitch.

In our motif, the VDD is ‘bookended’ at either side with a YO. These two Yarn Overs will take the place of the stitches that you decrease in the VDD, keeping the number of stitches in the motif constant.

More info tomorrow when we cover CABLES, another important element in our Split Cable Wimple.

I could use a Knit-Along, how about you?

I was gifted with some Qiviut yesterday, and I’ve been stroking it and loving it ever since.

I generally don’t knit up stuff for myself, JUST FOR ME, especially not in such a luxurious yarn. I try to use our own ModeKnit Yarn when I knit these days, but—c’mon—Qiviut ?  This is very special.

I’ve been told by my Med Onc, that I’ll be losing my hair.  I’m debating allowing Andy to just go ahead and shave it, it’s pretty short already, but my condition will be that ANDY will have to be my Sampson and will NOT cut their own hair.  It will make me so happy to see lovely, rich, deep auburn locks growing while my own bald pate is shining with Dex-induced fever sweats.

But I will need some kind of head covering. If nothing else, for the AC I’ll be in the rest of the Summer, and my chemo will be going FAR into the Fall and Winter and perhaps Spring of 2019.

SPLIT CABLE WIMPLE
Instead of a hat, I think I’m going to knit up a cowl and use it in various ways.  I love folding and twisting a cowl to create a sort of hat, and that will probably be the way that I utilize this beautiful Qiviut. Cowls and wimples are my go-to, I find them so useful, so this will be my Joyful Personal Knit for the coming weeks.

Would you like to knit along with me?

Buy Split Cable Wimple Pattern Now Via Paypal for $4.00

Be a NUN – or just look like one!

In all honesty, the pattern is NOT well reviewed (there’s only one 2-star review…) but it’s always been one of my favorites. There’s no accounting for taste, but I have met folks who’ve knit this up and have loved it.

It’s NOT my best selling pattern, but I love the idea of company to knit this together with me.  So if you purchase this pattern it before I start my Chemo on Monday, Aug 20, the price will be $4.00.

 

Blog Support
I’ll be happy to blog about the how my knitting is going every week or so, point out highlights and address issues that folks may be having.  It will be a nice change of pace on the blog from “Ow, I hurt.” or “Ish, I’m tired!”

If you’ve never knit lace, this may be easy enough to get you going. There IS a cable in it, and I’ll be happy to discuss my technique for cabling without a cable needle.  The lace work is simple and very repetitive, and once you get the first repeat you SHOULD be able to read your work and memorize the lace.  Or not.  I don’t like to put expectations on folks for their personal knits, I just hope this will be simple enough to be fun, and challenging enough to be interesting.

We could treat this as a casual, online class. I’ll post tutorials as I can, and you guys can share info with each other if you want.

How does that sound?

Buy Split Cable Wimple Pattern Now Via Paypal for $4.00

You can use WHATEVER fiber you want!  I’m using the aforementioned Qiviut, which is slightly heavier than a fingering weight.  I’ll be working it up on size 7US/4.5mm needles because that’s the drape I’m looking for, but with a cowl the beauty is gauge is NOT vital, so you can just aim for the lightness (or heaviness) of fabric you’re looking for and start there!

A note about lace: Do NOT fall under the misconception that because you’re knitting lace you’ll want to use HUGE needles.  I like to knit my lace on a needle that’s NOT too large for the yarn. If there’s too much space between stitches (which can happen with larger needles)

You get the pattern, you find some yarn, and let’s get going on Friday, okay?  See you then!